Interview: Allen Oniya and Ouigi Theodore Talk Icons of Style Collaborations With Macy's
Dropping Monday, 3/29 is Macy’s Icons of Style collections. Tapped by the Iconic 34th street retailer, creatives Zerina Akers, Misa Hylton, Aminah Abdul Jillil, Allen Onyia, and Ouigi Theodore lent their talents to the department store to offer their spin on some of their in-house collections. We caught up with their menswear collaborators, Allen Onyia, founder of Upscale Hype who partnered with INC International Concepts, and Ouigi Theodore, founder of The Brooklyn Circus who designed for Sun + Stone on their style inspirations, their time working with Macy’s, and what advice they have for up-and-coming black fashion creatives.
Were there any black men that influenced your style or to break into the fashion industry?
Allen: I tell people this all the time and this comes off a little strange because it’s not somebody a lot of people look at as a fashion person per-say but for me, it was Michael Jordan. I grew up playing ball and it was everything to me. Now, I cared about what I looked like as a kid, I always had my style and perspective but I started caring about it more playing ball because I love the way Michael Jordan carried himself on and off the court. I watched a lot of his commercials and he’d be wearing suits, some of them were campaigns in his regular uniform. Michael Jordan for me made me want to, as a black man look the part.
Ouigi: I entered the business through the retail door and never had any plans to own a store. I had a motorcycle apparel line before and when you think about Fubu, Sean John, and Karl Kani I had quite a few examples in the American urban landscapes. But like you said growing up in New York and the urban community, getting dressed was a form of armor and expression. If you didn’t have the right things on or you didn’t take the time to look a certain way you were the butt of the jokes or people wouldn’t necessarily gravitate towards you. And when you think about what Macy’s did in the urban space in the ’90s and 2000s with an entire floor of urban designers in the same stores they sold Polo in, another important brand for us as well.
Below: Select pieces from Ouigi Theodore x Sun + Stone collection with Macy’s
What it like for Macy’s to work with you on these Icons of Style Collections?
Allen: One, I’d like to extend my gratitude to Macy’s because I was honored they selected me to be one of the five to represent their initiative. Macy's working with me, I felt it was seamless. They connected me to their INC International Concepts brand which I feel it’s a line that speaks to who I am as a man, designer, and creative. Working with the team, I felt we created a collection that best reflected what the INC International Concepts brand represents but also more importantly reflected what my vision and my voice were. For me, Macy’s growing up was everything. I’m Nigerian and with my parents, everything was Macy’s. If we had to get anything from pots and pans to bedding it was always Macy’s no other department store came to mind. Macy’s was our luxury; the fashionable place to go to pick up everything and the one-stop-shop. The connection was there working with Macy’s because of the history I have with the brand. I’m honored and I hope I represented the brand on a very high level —I feel like I represented the brand on a very high level!
Ouigi: My experience with Macy’s was great. I think they did a great job at selecting the designers that fit the brands we ultimately ended up with. Now we’re in the launch phase. It’s time to see what the consumers gravitate to and how they react to the collections. The crew was amazing to work with. It was a full-circle moment to come work with Macy’s and it was great to know that they allowed us to do what we wanted to do. They didn’t come in and water down what the vision was, they magnified it.
Ouigi Theodore, founder of The Brooklyn Circus. Image Courtesy: Macy’s
Who is the man that is connecting with your Icons of Style collection?
Allen: I always look at designing [clothes] from a perspective of what would I like. I feel like people who would be rocking my clothing are like me who share the same interest and views. I know some people design thinking about what other people would like, I design thinking about what I like. Something that I think is great about this Macy’s collection is people have described my style as attainable high fashion and I feel like this collection is a little bit of luxury, a little bit of high-end, and it’s a little bit of attainability with the price point. For people who see the world like me, this is a collection they can see, touch, and wear this collection.
Ouigi: We are a men’s per-say company per-say but we don’t make clothes for men per-say. And I say per-say after every statement simply because I grew up with 4 women. A lot of my inspiration comes from women, most of the Brooklyn Circus collections have been dedicated to women. Of course, because I’m a black man living in America part of this is dedicated to me and my journey and my struggle. But because a lot of inspiration comes from women the collection is not just for men. They are for people and humans that can relate to the story. This collection is for like-minded individuals rather you enjoy history or vintage or you love art. All of that is intertwined in this Sun+ Stone collection and it's always intertwined into the work that I do.
Below: Select pieces from Allen Onyia x INC International Concepts collection with Macy’s
Do you have any advice for young black creatives looking to break into the fashion industry?
Allen: Yes, I do! This is something I wear on my shoulders, It’s my motto, It’s a message I have to remind myself because people look at me sometimes and think I have it all figured out. I have to remind myself in the words of Nipsy, “It’s a marathon.” The advice I would give to young black creatives is to find something you love to do, be consistent at it. Through consistency, you’ll have learnings and those will allow you to perfect your craft. Through consistency, your opportunity will come. Don’t ever think your opportunity won’t come, it will in some form or fashion, and you’ll want to be ready. The consistency will allow you to be ready and you can bust that door open. Upscale Hype didn’t happen overnight. It took us a while, we were just consistent every day. We knew what our goal was, we knew what our message was, we knew what the vision was and we were just consistent with it, and once it hit it hit. Stay consistent, take your learning, perfect them and just be ready for when that door opens a little bit to bust it open.
Ouigi: Do a lot of research. Jump in get your feet on the ground, intern, find a mentor, find several mentors, and have patience. Tap into what we’re doing which is the 100-year plan. Don’t think it’s going to happen overnight. Any seasoned professional in this business Black, White, Hispanic, Asian, or other took time. A lot of patience, build your voice and listen more than you do speak.
Allen Onyia, founder of Upscale Hype. Image Courtesy: Macy’s