The Underground Table : Chef Russell Jackson’s Revolution of Taste and Truth
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The founder of Subculture Dining talks activism, legacy, and the art of defiance through food.
Photography & Interview by Ammar Jamal
Styling by Nigel Isaiah
Location The 9 Studios
he transformed the act of cooking into a form of resistance, MY BULLY challenging conventional restaurant norms and the inequities within the industry. PULPIT” Throughout our conversation, Chef Russell reflected on his journey—from his early days in Los Angeles fine dining to building an underground culinary movement that redefines what community and resistance look like through food. His advocacy for fairness and sustainability in the restaurant industry echoes through every dish and every conversation he has with “It’s not about fame or popularity; it’s about necessity, culture, and responsibility.” guests. Now, with decades of experience behind him, Chef Russell’s focus is legacy—ensuring that Subculture Dining serves as both a cultural archive and a platform for equity, environmental awareness, and empowerment. His table isn’t exclusive—it’s revolutionary.
Ammar Jamal (AJ): Chef Russell. Anything you want to discuss? In particular, what’s on your mind?
Chef Russell (RJ): It’s been a trying few months, honestly—really the past few years. But I think it’s the past few years. But I think it’s important to focus on what matters right now. It’s hard not to talk about what’s happening in the world, in my industry, to my friends and family— the people I care about. I see people joking on social media, and I hate social media, but I doom-scroll like everyone else. I really need to go back to reading magazines on the shitter. You know, the difference between that and a concentrated sit-down with coffee on the terrace—it’s a different experience. This morning, I was reading about the Gestapo-style raids in Chicago and Pittsburgh, where restaurants were gutted, personnel taken, food stolen on camera. Where does any law justify that? It’s hard not to have that conversation, but I hope more people are starting to realize the systemic issues. There are always fringe groups cheering for this chaos, but the core problem is greed and indifference—people only care about themselves.
AJ: You said people get it, but there were a historic number of voters for him. Do you think people really understand?
RJ: Honestly, I’ve lost friends I trusted to see through the bullshit. The machine always been about around him made it impossible for most to break through the noise. But now, I think there’s growing awareness. evolution and
AJ: For context, we’re talking about projects in 2025. How do you, in Subculture Dining (SCD), combat this changing landscape, especially the challenges hitting the restaurant industry?
RJ: The only way to combat it is with voice and action. I saw videos in Chicago of people helping immigrants, small acts of resistance that matter. The pandemic, economic instability, corporate indifference—it all showed us how fragile the restaurant world really is. When the first wave hit, many businesses collapsed because they were built on shaky foundations. Even after the pandemic, most businesses returned to the old ways, ignoring lessons learned. Personally, I had to close my restaurants despite trying to survive post-pandemic. Investment, neighborhood expectations, tariffs, rising prices—it’s been relentless. Seeing friends like Jeremy Fox, who built amazing restaurants only to close, is heartbreaking.
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AJ: Do you see SCD as a way to reinvigorate the industry?
RJ: Absolutely. You have to understand why Subculture Dining was created. I opened my first restaurant in LA in the late ’90s, faced disasters, fires, floods, and the OJ trial, then moved to San Francisco. I worked privately for Fortune 50 CEOs, traveling constantly. After years of that, I realized I needed to build another restaurant, but also wanted a different approach. I met a developer with a historic waterfront space. It took millions and years to build, but it became my dream kitchen. That experience led me to the underground dining concept. I realized I could cook, make money, and remain flexible. We adopted technology early—Twitter, hidden websites—and operated anonymously for nearly a decade. Rules were essential: no approaching me, no photos, no phones during service. Guests respected it. It’s about protecting privacy, secrecy, and safety, allowing people to decompress and enjoy the experience fully. SCD became more than a restaurant; it’s a cultural statement. It’s about evolution, revolution, and giving people a safe, meaningful experience.
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AJ: Where does this spirit of resistance come from?
RJ: It’s in my DNA. My father was an activist in the medical field, fighting for malpractice laws and physician rights. I grew up watching him advocate passionately. I realized during the pandemic, holding my child, that I want to do the same—use my platform to help others. I can’t just focus on myself. Being an African-American chef has its challenges, and I’ve faced inequities. I see other people being celebrated for things I’ve been doing for decades. I’ve spent 24 years innovating underground dining, yet recognition often goes to others. But this isn’t about bitterness—it’s about persistence and principle.
AJ: How does SCD reflect that philosophy?
RJ: SCD has rules because people often act inappropriately. Simple rules like no phones exist to protect everyone’s experience. It’s about communal respect. The goal is to create an immersive experience where guests leave the outside world behind for a few hours. That’s our culture. That’s our revolution. SCD has always been about evolution and innovation, but now it’s also about legacy. It’s about thinking of the long-term impact—on staff, community, and environment. During the pandemic, we fed our community quietly, supported staff financially, and tried to build wealth and stability for them. We helped each other navigate debt, bankruptcy, and recovery. SCD is my platform for change—cultural, economic, and social. It’s about doing what I have to do because if I don’t, who will? That’s why we do what we do—because it matters, not for mass approval, but because it’s necessary.
AJ: Thank you again, Chef Russell. Amazing shoot. Even better conversation.
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